Finished !!

Got to the USA / Mexico border on Wednesday at 2:30pm
Wahooo :)

Quite cool to have finished, although it still hasn't really sunk in I think.
Had a cruisey final 100km's from a stealth camp south of Separ.
Flat riding with blue skies, nice wide open views of the surrounding desert and thankfully the MP3 was still charged up.
Jasper (Canada), over 5,000km's ago seems a long way, and a long time ago.

Its been a great ride, we've been very lucky with superb weather pretty much throughout, and I've been really lucky to have hooked up with with some great riding buddies.
From start to finish everyone we've met have been really helpful and we've met some fantastic people along the way.

Will update some more a bit later

Leaving the USA .....
and coming back
it was a bit breezey at the last Divivde crossing
and a bit quiet...

Silver City - two days to go ......

Got into Silver City yesterday on the back of a rain storm. Kind of ironic I think as you'd expect it to be hot and dry here around now. So the bikes got a bit of a wash down enroute (but had to be careful with them in the motel:), and then it fined up for the arvo.
SC is quite nice and we're having a day off (after five days on the go from Grants) to sort things out for the next two day to the border.

Have had some really diverse riding/scenery thru the Gila National forest region which has been a surprise and very cool.
Wide open vista's, canyons, Ponderosa forests, technical descents (esp at speed) and at times we'd have sworn we were in africa and expecting zebra's & giraffes.
The riding wasn't as hard as expected (although some of the canyons were a grind to get out of) and we'd balanced the mileage out pretty well at about 80km per day.

So just two days to go now, mostly flat and mostly on road :)
Approx 80km to get past Separ and then 120km all on road to the border.
A shuttle back to Silver city and maybe a margarita or two.
Would be rude not too.



Cuba - Grants (2 days)
Awesome.
Possibly two of the best days of the ride.
err, have I said the before?
First day out I headed off earlier so rode the day out front alone. Really nice. Cool and crisp in the morning then heated up later.
All desert riding, so sandy spots on the track that you had to push across at times, huge wide views of rock stacks, a bit more technical riding, dropping into and up out of aroya's (dry, river beds) and just open desert views. A few smallish climbs but basically seemed mostly flattish and fast (esp in the morning). Sweet.
Managed to twist my chain (out with the pliers and spanner again) and also took a dive in some sand (bar end now a bit wobbly).
More of the same the next morning then a bit more climbing later on before (eventually) descending to Grants. Came across a nice big snake across the road which Hywell almost fell onto :) as a bit too focussed on his ipod!
Not sure that we really needed it but then had another rest day as were doing the next six day section in five days (less food & water to carry).



Abiquiu - Polvedera Messa
Found that my rear tired was flat so fixed it while the others had brekky after a trip to Bodes in Geoff's truck (while the others rode:)
A shortish ride up Polvedera Messa which I found a bit tiring for some reason. May be that it was hotter, or maybe the extra 5 litres of water (10litres all up) we'd had to carry in leiu of there being nothing on the tops, or that fact that it was mostly uphill. Even had a wee dive off the bike in a sandy spot while weaving down a rocky patch. Either way, I was a bit shagged at the end but perked up with some soup, it seems to be the magic potion. Still, a nice campsite amongst the pines. Had a great lightening show later that night as well, but hardly any rain, which is a great combo.

Thought I'd go "Fly-less", until a few spot of rain around dinner time














Saturday 27 Aug, Polvedera Messa - Cuba
A dry tent as no rain after dinner despite the thunder & lightnening rolling around last night. Straight into more climbing as we weren't topped out at the cmampsite. Some nice rocky bits as well which although harder are more fun. Then more undulating riding prior to a great bit of technical descending which lasted a good while. BoB just seesm to take this stuff in his stride although he got a puncture at about the halfway mark while going uphill. Fixed, and onwards and eventually some good fast downhill sections to the highway.
A wicked road descent down Horseshoe canyon, with a new top speed of 74kmph, and eventually getting to Cuba (pronounced Koo-bar).
No campgrounds in Cuba so motelled it.
A long'ish day at 95km with a good mix of everything.

Abiquiu

24/9/08
Well, we're in Abiquiu, but had to detour to get here.
A few days ago we got 3/4's up Indianna Pass and got informed that the route past Summitville was closed due to pipelaying works. A bit pissed being an understatement.
So it was back down to Del Norte, stay another night there and detour on road via Pagosa and Charma. Don't worry, Wolf Pass into a head wind was plenty tough enough on top of the aborted Indianna Pass climb. In fact we're doing more km's and more climbing overall.

Tonight we're at the Abiquiu Inn (very nice) and tomorrow prob at a friend of Scotts a few miles away (there is no campsite in Abiquiu itself).
A rest day tomorrow as we've been doing some long rides and to get out of Abiquiu involves one of the harder climbs of the whole trip I gather. Time will tell.
Will update the last fews day etc tomorrow.

23/9/08 Pagosa Springs - Charma 92km (on road)
An undulating day on the road. Nice scenery but definitely prefer the off road.
The MP3 player was a good move.
Nice CG at Charma tho, and in by 3pm.


22/9/08 Del Norte - Pagosa Springs 95km (on road)
An easy 20km to South Fork, then turned into the wind for an uptulating warm-up prior to a big road climb over Wolf Pass with a strong head wind. An extra 3,000ft climbing for the route I guess and I was feeling it. Eventually topped out with another CD crossing and then a huge descent that required pedaling due to the strong headwind.


21/9/09 Del Norte - Del Norte (should have ended up past Indianna Pass)
A late'ish start due to tent drying then off for some uptulating road riding as a warm up to the big Indianna Pass. Then into low gear (well, maybe hitting 3rd occaisionally) and start the grind. A bit wet as well which cleared.
And then the news we didn't need.
A guy in a truck came down and told us that the road higher up was closed due to pipe laying works and that we couldn't get thru, doh! And we'd gotten 3/4's up to boot. So, after a bit of discussion we sped back down to Del Norte with the aim to detour on road to Abiquiu.
A real bummer as it was the biggest climb which we'd miss. Prob would have pushed on if by myself to see just how closed it really was (surely a bicycle could get thru!), but thats decision by committee I guess (time was also getting on, plus the weather wasn't too stable, and a rider had been turned back at the top the week before).



20/9/08 Ludder Creek - Del Norte
I got away first by myself which was quite nice, esp as it was a nice descent through a canyon and more aspens. Great way to start the day. Some tarmac and then an OK climb up to Carnero Pass past some nice rock formations etc. Topped out at 10,167ft then another nice descent. Had planned to camp somewhere after the descent but with nothing really suitable we decided to carry onto Del Norte. No probs and a good move. Chris and I just got there before the arvo rainstorm which caught some of the others. Yah for petrol stations I guess. Eventually got set up in the CG and the a speedy grocery shop (five days worth - think lite) and off for dinner at Boogies. A good day, plus we made up a day as that was two days worth of riding by the book.




19/9/08 Sargants - Ludder Creek
Nice not have to dry tents etc for a change. And a nice 20km road downhill as a warm up before easy undulating dirt road again. Am liking the Colorado dirt road conditions. An easy climb over Cochetopa Pass and along to the CG. The pump was not working but some RV'ers kindly gave us plenty so we didn't need to pump straight from the creek. Otherwise a nice CG amongst Apens.



18/9/08 Salida - Sargants
Decided against replacing my semi broken pedal after a bit of procrastination, and a $140 price tag. One side works OK so should be fine.
A short road section past Poncha Springs while my stomach wasn't feeling too flash. Then off road for 3,000ft climb. OK tho as it was again a railway gradient, and quite nice thru Aspens etc. But I really struggled for some reason and was glad to get to the top. Lunch and then another wicked fast descent to Sargants. Twice, my bear spray canister went flying out of its holder when going over some dips. We got a couple of Teepee's instead of our own tents. Quite nice for a change although still cool in the morning despite a gas fire going in the middle of the Teepee all night.

Salida 16/9/08

Tis a lovely day here in Salida, Blue sky, short 25km ride here (of which about 15km were a wicked downhill :), great bike shop (Absolute Bikes), nice campsite, coffee shops... I wanna stay.
An early start, I was off at the unheard of 7:50am as we're not bothering to dry tents (will do so in Salida) or do much for breakfast.
A short climb to a watershed and then a sweet descent to Salida. It just goes on and on and on...
Great views of some 14,000ft surrounding mountains as well.
So in Salida by 10am and sifting at Absolute Bikes with a coffee. My kinda day.


Badger Creek 15/9/08
Crisp frosty morning as per usual made better with a nice breakfast at the Depot.
Great undulating riding to Hartsel amongst huge scenery. Too much for a photo to really express. A butterscotch milkshake with lunch and then off for more of the same great riding & scenery.
Kate had our first crash of the trip (err, something about a small tornado... true) but otherwise more nice riding.
('stealth') Camped at/near Badger Creek although not so stealthy as there are no tree's around and we were just off the road. OK spot tho.
A long'ish day at 92km's but quite easy and makes for a short day to Salida which should give a good half rest day.


Como 14/9/08
Another frosty morning (a usual) so a bit slow to de-camp (dry tents) and then off to Frisco for brekky.
For some reason I found the (very) slightly uphill bike path to Breckenridge a bit hard. Maybe I need more than a breakfast bagel to get me going.
Breckenridge is a more substantial and even more glitzy ski town than Silverthorne. Would be nice to come back for a ski sometime.
Groceries for a few days and then off up Boreas Pass.
Awesome riding.
Nice easy gradient (as it was a narow gauge railway track), good surface and great scenery. Lunch at the top by some historic huts and above the snowline.
Then a great descent to Como. Chris and I almost made it to Como without pedalling, but we got stopped by a driver saying that Hat had had puncture. So I had a wee nap by the road while waiting.
Just 2km's later and in Como, found Scott's tent (and Scott) at the Como Depot hotel.
Its run by David (from Wales) and Moya (sp?) who were really nice to us. Free camping and use of the facilities (much appreciated). Then a great dinner (soup, chicken burritto, bread pudding and a nice Pilsner for me. yum) while Moir even did some laundry for us. How good is that!
These guys rock and this place needs a mention in the ACA/map notes (why would you want to camp up near the pass or at the school I don't know).
Another good day.

Silverthorne 13/9/08Nice crisp blue sky Sunday morning (and no tents to dry). Great day for a ride.
The three huge pancakes beat me, probably shouldn't have had the big cinnamon roll first I guess.
Nice rolling riding this morning on typically good surface (hard pack dirt) with nice wide open scenery. Even the climb to Ute Pass (9,574ft) was easy (and mostly road :). Great views from the top of the freshly dusted mountains. Then a wicked road descent to the highway. And more road to Silverthorne which seems to be a posh ski village. Nice campsite overlooking the lake tho. 90km's today but relatively easy.

Kremmling

A rest day / drying day in Kremmlings today as the rain etc has finally caught us.
Had a cool ride from Lynx Pass yesterday includng a 2,000ft descent to Radium and a wicked descent to Kremmlings (72kmph). On the same section some others in the crew were doing 10kmph into a huge squall! Managed to dodge thunder squalls till when we put up the tents, doh! Apart from the threatening weather the riding was quite good on a good surface.
Enchiladas for dinner, expect to have more of this as we get further south.

Radium is down there somewhere















Steamboat Springs - Lynx Pass
After a huge breakfast by Johnny's neigbour Barabara we headed off for Lynx pass. Initially a road section with some thunder/rain by nice and warm. Then off road but nice riding in great scenery. Got a bit tedious towards then end (should check my map better for expected distances I think) but got there in the end and was well shagged for it. But chook soup does wonders.



Slater Park - Steamboat Springs
An auspiscious start when the Bristols decided to make an early start, then went the wrong way. No worries as they caught us up at the Morrison Pass. Met some Bow shooters (BlackwidowBows.com I think) after Elk etc who gave us some coffee and let us fire off a few arrows (or is that bolts?), pretty cool. The ascent was only 6km but was a real push up to the pass, but an awesome descent (rocky & fast) to Clark for a late lunch. Prob the best store that we've come across I think.
Then into Steamboat along the road.
Got invited to camp on Johnny & Gigi's back lawn which was really appreciated. A really nice couple. Had a rest day there as well for laundry, groceries etc, and a nice Hot Pool session at night.
Great place.






















Aspen Valley - Slater Park CG
'Aspen alley' was quite nice despite the leaves still being on the tree's and not yet yellow. A very short section tho but worthy of some photo's.
Fast road section for 20km then back off road to the Slater park dispersed campsite.
Nice uptulating riding with plenty of small snakes (dead and alive) to weave around.


Rawlins - Aspen Valley
Boring road section then off road and steep on gravel, bit of a slog. After lunch it was just big tiring rollercoaster type riding. Nice to be into the Aspens tho as they make it nice and cool, as well as looking nice. Btw, each Aspen stand is actually sourced from a single 'tree'.

Rawlins, WY

A day off today here in Rawlins. Some tents need a bit of drying (due to frost/ice), and generally a re-charge after crossing the desert.
Pinedale - Rawlins is a 220mile stretch of desert with not much in it other than some Pronghorn antelope, wild horses, lots of sage bush and huge, wide open views, and not much water.
The first night into it at Little Sandy Creek we finally saw some clouds, lots of them in fact, along with strong winds, hail and snow. After a month of blue sky I guess that it had to break. A blessing in disguise I guess as we were well looked after by Mike Wade, wife & daughter who run a horse trekking operation there. It didn't take much convincing that the mess tent with wood burning stove was a better place to spend the day rather than up in the desert (NZ'ers, think Desert Rd mid winter).
Yet again, some really nice people.
My new tent was saying 'what storm?"
The next few days to Rawlins thru the desert were great . Awesome views, good fast riding on a great surface, and even a tail wind :)
Scott from Banff has joined us, at the A&M reservoir. He's been slowly catching us over the last month while hearing all about us as he's passed thru various towns.





















A&M Reservoir













Brrrr...

















Mike, Bobby, Emily and the crew














Our 'haven'...















Pinedale
A bit rushed as we got there after a 100km day and had to get groceries for the next four days. The central CG was a bit dodgy but way preferable to a 8mile one way off route ride to the other option.
But, finally, I got a new tent. Yaa.
A Big Agnes Seedhouse SL2 from REI and delivered to the Pinedale A-Z Hardware/Bike shop (who also sent my tent home, cheers:). Half the weight of my Fairydown Assault, even more room, easier and faster to set up, and I think that I can set up / take down in the rain and stay dry'ish (time will tell).
Anyway, I'm a happy camper.

South Fork Fish Creek
A cruisey ride to Fish Creek from Brookes Lake. Knocked off Union Pass which wasn't too bad. First half great on a well formed dirt road, then bit harder on much looser gravel to the Divide Crossing. A big lunch at the Sawmill prior to the 'second half' probably made it a bit harder.
Anyway, enroute to Fish Creek we were invited to stay at the rangers station with Rob & Maria. Apparently there were plenty of bears in the are due to the cattle being ill and thus easier prey, such that they wanted us to be safe. As if we'd pass up such as request. So we had a great evening with them. Maria conjured up a nice Lassange for dinner and pancakes for brekky while Rob entertained us in his great 'Alabaham' style. Awesome!




















Brookes Lake













Yellowstone
Was a bit disappointing.
Basically a tourist trap with a some hot pools and a few Bison wandering around (Old Faithful epitomising things by being very lame). If you're into thermal activity then NZ is way better and I hear the Greenland even more so.
Still, good to kick back for a day or two.
Although hiring a car for a spin around the place was a good idea, we all felt much better riding thru on our bikes.
And we did get four more divide crossings.

West YellowStone

Have diverted thru Yellowstone Nat Park as of yesterday and are in West Yellowstone for a couple of days. Just chilling today and have hired a car for tomorrow for a quick blast around the park. Got a biggish day on Tuesday, to Grants which will be about 80km including 2x divide crossings over 8,000ft from about 6,500ft. On road so shouldn't be too bad.
Still struggling to remember what clouds look like....

Lima, Montana

Sweet, short, downhill day today. All in big ring from Morrison Lake and thru some cool canyons. Really nice.
Its hot (and breezey), as it has been for the last week or so. Not complaining for sure.
Might be diverting thru Yellowstone in a couple of days so will see what pans out about that.
Must be due for an icecream and a steak dinner tonight, mmm.

Divide Crossing #1 (Taff style)

Helena 14 Aug. Rest Day

A few more pic's.....



















14 Aug 2008, Helena, day off.
Nice to sleep in a bed again, but kinda feel a bit guilty (the tenting/thermarest is quite nice). Late brekky then off to the Great Divide Cyclery bike shop to get new bearings for BoB, new grips and a new bottle cage.
An outdoors shop also has just the right replacement bit for the fuel pump so everything is looking good.


13 Aug 2008, Deadmans Creek - Helana.
Straight into climbing but not as hard as yesterday. Nice grind up to our next Divide Crossing then another fast rocky descent, sweet.
Bit more flattish riding then an easy climb to our second Divide Crossing for the day, and lunch.
A fast descent and then a fast road section to Helena.
The recommended campsite was 5mls outta town so we opted for a motel instead. Good move and got one quite central for a good price. Great, as got laundry done, showered and a nice meal. I passed on a movie.


12 Aug 2008, Lincoln - Deadmans Creek
Bit of a latish start that included a cooked brekky (corned beef mash & eggs for me) and a game of pool. No sense rushing things.
Easy climb till the right hander then very steep. Really nice riding once it eased off a bit thru up-tulating dirt track. Got a vid of the team crosing the stream, so at the back of the line. Shame cos Ken had a bear encounter again (I not taking photo's anymore...) where the bear was just 30ft away and then ambled off. Yeah, a bit jealous of that.
Climb got a bit harder & looser further up and had to push a couple of sections. But really nice riding and then got to our first USA divide crossing which was cool. lucnh then a great fast rocky'ish descent. And onto the eastern side of the divide. Quite different from the western side as more open. Eventually found the dispersed campsite at Deadmans creek which was actually quite nice. Walla Walla chilli and rice for a change for dinner, yum. Another good day.

Lincoln

'Tarp' Lunch during thunderstorm on Richmond Peak
View from the pass















11 Aug 2008
Easy day to Lincoln, just one climb that was supposedly 'testy' but was quite easy.
Lincoln is small and rural but we have a nice grassey spot at an RV park for just $7 with shower... :)
Bike and BoB are mostly OK but need to replace the cartridge bearings on BoB's wheel, a broken bottle cage and get new grips. Also the plunger on the fuel bottle needs replacing.
But everything else seems to be hanging in there reasonably OK
Got a couple of Divide Crossings in the next two days enroute to Helena where we'll have a day off.
The Taffs & Bristols are good company so am lucky to its great to have strayed across them.
I need to break out of tuna/paste/sauce for dinner and porridge for brekky (lots of different flavours tho), although salami & cheese slice bagels seem to be good for lunches.
Suggestions please.


10 Aug Seely Lake - Big Nelson CG
Breakfast at the diner.
'Up-tulating for a while then a fast gravel descent. Nice.
Pie and icecream at Ovando & picked up some beer for dinner.
A couple of long, corrugated road and eventually at the lake campsite which was mossie free:)
Mostly sloping site but had the place to ourselves after daytrippers had left, but I found a nice tent sized spot on grass right at the lakes edge. Fortunately lakes aren't tidal.



9 Aug Holland Lake - Seely lake
Great Day's riding.
'Up-tulating' for a while and then some sweet single track through tall grass and tree's.
Not a lot of bear calling ahd been happening for a few days...
So of course Harriet & Ken came across our first bear, which ran off :)
Would have liked to have seen it myself, next time maybe.
Stuck together a bit more with a lot more noise.
Then onto the climb for the day(Richmond Peak Pass I think) which was singletrack with huge views. By far the best riding to date. Not far from the top we stopped for lunch under a tarp with thunder lightening and rain. Really cool actually. Followed by a great singletrack descent, fast gravel descent and then to Seely lake.
Great day.
Camped at a motel, groceries and a $40 steak dinner to celebrate finishing a map, hey, why not.



8 Aug: Cedar Creek - Holland lake
Straight into a good climb. I find this best in the morning anyway. Even a bit of singletrack and a had a 'wobble' on a soft sectin of 4wd. Slow down.
Drank more today I think so felt better.
Holland Lake is great (less mossies for a start). Had a swim and went for a ride aroud to a huge rope swim into the lake. Happy not to have had swimming shorts as a good excuse not to do the swing. Am getting soft.



7 Aug: Big Fork - Cedar Creek
Hot nights sleep.
Pizza, yogurt, and juice for brekky as a change from porridge.
Took an hour to climb over to Ferndale then a fast descent and a really nice piece of rolling dirt track to Cedar/Fatty Creek, and the mossies, doh!
BoB's wheel came off and we discovered that the bearing also need replacing, which will look to do in Helena about a week away.
Used the new water filter. Seemed Ok but I guess will tell after 24hrs.



6 Aug: Whitefish - Big Fork
Nice big brekky at the icecream shop then off late'ish with blue skies and hot. Had a deer go racing across the road in front of me and Ken & I had a wolf cross ahead of us later as well.
Stopped for lunch next to Mountain Brook school and was offered icecream by the teacher and two kids there doing summer school. Really nice kids, in fact Hywell got a game of football going with then which was a fun break. They really appreciated it.
Got to Big Fork and a prime camp spot right on the lake. Groceries, pizza for tea and even dessert. Touring is hard work.

A few pic's....

Upper Whitefish Lake

Bear at Jonas Campsite

Cabin down off Elk Pass

Howell & Brizzles

Whitefish 5 Aug 08

Rest day today here in Whitefish, USA.
Beautiful blue sky day, just like yesterday, and nice & warm. Am sure we'll reach 'hot' later in the journey.
Just sifting, eating icecream (Huckleberry & Pecan), yum.
Am a bit unsure about my hi tech water purifier so will buy a different one later (Katadyn Hiker Pro).
The Steripen seems to be OK, but chews batteries a bit fast (likes them fresh and high powered) and am unsure how they will go later on if water is not as clear as currently around here.
Looked into sending my tent back home and buying a new smaller lighter one but at $100nzd to send back is getting a bit pricey. Compared to the others its a mansion, paid for in sweat. What doesn't kill you makes you stronger I guess (hope).
Going to do a couple of day & 1/2's as the distances seem easy enough.

Monday 4 Aug, Upper Whitefish Lake - Whitefish
Nice, still, morning at Upper Whitefish Lake campsite so took a few photo's of the lake.
An easy ride downhill to Whitefish Lake (and some flash houses) then a small climb on tarmac along the lake.
Into Whitefish and to Glacier Cyclery for some info etc.
Icecream !
Opted for CheapSleeps motel but all booked so using the campsite at $24 per night. Still its OK and have shower etc.
Lot of sifting, including a burger for late lunch, beer at the brewery then Mexican diner later.
Blue sky and nice & warm


Sunday 3 Aug, Tuchuck - Upper Whitefish CG
Cold night, and something moved some dishes off the camp table at night (heard it but didn't sound big).
Back to porridge for brekky.
Easy cruise down North Fork Rd etc with a couple of rain showers then a bit of a climb up to Red Meadow lake. All on a good gravel surface.
Had a chat to a guy with a nice strip built canoe he'd made himself (must get my kayak back on track when home).
Then a fast descent to Upper Whitefish Lake. OK, but nothing on Tuchuck.


Saturday 2 Aug, Eureka - Tuchuck Campsite
Had a nice big pancake brekky for a change. Nice. At Jax cafe as per last nights dinner. Great postcards!
Despite the reknown Quilt show, we decided to push on to Tuchuck campsite.
Quite easy (road) riding and then a bit more effort required to get up and over the pass. Then a nice downhill to the campsite.
Great spot by a stream, which Kenneth lost a flipflop in while doing press ups. Remember, he's Welsh.
And the Bristols made it as well (good effort from Grassmere & esp with the border crossing / immigration etc) which made for a crew of six. Cool.
Had a beer around the campfire.
Despite being well into grizzly territory it felt fine.


Friday 1 Aug, Barnes Lake - Eureka
Off along tarmac heading for Grassmere with a couple of direction rethinks along the way.
Not far from Grassmere got caught by 3x guys from Swansea (Kenneth, Howel and Chris) also doing the ride.
I was going to camp with the Bristols at Grassmere but decided to carry on with the Taff's to Eureka in the US to give me a shorter next day.
No probs going through the border.
Bear spray is OK if it has a picture of a bear on it.
Bit of a head wind into Eureka, a wee diversion (right instead of left), and settled into the town park for the night (nice lush grass instead of gravel :)
Groceries, a huckleberry smoothie then dinner. This cycling touring bizzo ain't so hard after all.
A German road tourer ('currious' George) joined us for dinner also. He struggled with my accent and general slang.


Thur 31 Aug, Fernie to Barnes Lake.
Easy day.
Not a flash start as one of my tent poles had fractured (fixed with a pole sleave), and then the ranger lady drove over my tent fly drying on the road as I was moving my bike to give her space. If it had ripped I definitely would not 'get over it'. Crazy - thats my house!
Anyway, a nice cruisey ride down the Elk River. Hat got a bit fast on some pot holes and jettisoned her trailer (its designed to detach when required). I wasn't too far behind her so got more of a shock than her I think. A helmet-cam would have been good.
Great spot at the campsite. Swim in Survey lake (with cycle clothes so laundry done as well) was nice and refreshing.
Saw a turtle.
And some skunks nor far from our camp area.
Rice & chilli for dinner then invited for desert by our RV neighbour and extended family. Just as we were heading off for the dessert the park ranger had us move off the 'endangered' grass/dirt and onto gravel which pissed us off (and I bent 2 more tent pegs). Tosser.
Park rangers 2, Andy 0.
A nice cruisey day anyway.

Fernie

Made it to Fernie yesterday, into a hot headwind. Wasn't as far from Sparwood as I thought.
Met up with Kate and Harriet (Hat) from Bristol at the Fernie campsite. They are also doing the GDMBR and started a few days before me but have had a coupe of days off in Fernie. They are using an unusual Polish trailer design. Uses a normal 26" wheel with a couple of slings on the side for gear. Might try it out for a comparison. They tried a BoB but opted for this other method, but I'm liking the BoB system so far.
Anyway, am having my first day off.
Mainly cos its thunder & lightening etc but also I think Ive earned it. Had a nice lie in this morning till lunchtime, listening to radio/MP3 and the rain on the tent - quite relaxing actually. No showers here at the CG so off down to the aquatic centre, maybe even a swim later, and possibly laundry.
Fernie seems quite cool with a few bars etc down main street and all the facilities. The only downside so far being that the CG is a mile or two from town, up a slight hill and has no shower. I think I'm geting picky already.
Anyway, down-dulating to the border from here, then the Whitefish Divide.
So far the route description isn't quite as bad as I'd thought and navigation is no problem (just check twice and keep an eye on the trip distance).

Day 1 - 4: Banff to Sparwood (update from Sparwood)

Tuesday 29 July 2008, 1:30pm (updated at Sparwood library)
Left Elkwood this morning headed for Hosmer (prob won't make Fernie). A steepish road climb then a long well packed gravel road (Fording Rd) to Sparwood. Saw some deer but no bison :(
Good progress despite a headwind & nice weather, so stopped in to use internet at Sparwood library at lunch.

Mon 28/7/08 Boulton - Elkford
A tough push up to Elk Pass (could only ride half of the 'virtual wall'), and my first Divide crossing.
Then down down down, well 'down-dulating' as I'm calling things, to Elkford.
A bit of a technical moment when the BoB wheel decided on freedom by detaching itself from BoB and overtook me... (mustn't have secured the quick release properly when it came off getting past the gate at the pass). Fortunately it was bouncing away down the uphill side of the trail rather than off over downhill edge!
Played tag with some butterfly scientists and stopped for lunch at a cool little cabin where I was given 2x fruit punnets and 2x fruit juices really appreciated.
They also mentioned that there were a couple of girls a day or so ahead as well (would explain some tire tracks I'd noticed coming off the pass).
Topped up my water bottles also at the fresh (clean) water spring behind it.
Elkford was OK (aka mossie free) albeit red neck central, as well as having nice weather. Ate at the restuarant.


Sun 27/7/08 Spray lake - Boulton Trading Post
Onwards along Spray lake. First time I've felt 'alone' so was putting out plenty of "Yogi" calls. Nice riding alongside the lake, then into some forest (which really felt like bear territory), some single/horse track, then up a hill and back onto S-D Rd. Had a fish-tailing wobble in some gravel so watched the speed a bit better afterwards. BoB got a puncture 2km before Boulton Trading post where I stayed for the night (mossies, up a hill and no food storeage facilities so not impressed with the place). Just because 99.9% of people have cars/RV's etc shouldn't make it too much effort to put in some bear proof food storeage bins!


Sat 26/7/08 Banff - Spray lake (just 29km's)
First day on the ride...
Didn't start till midday as had a few thing to do, then off down the Spray River trail. OK going with a couple of climbs (and pushes) and then the dusty Smith-Dorien Rd to Spray lake (which wasn't much fun). At the Spary River dam a sharp thuder storm came in, however as the main campsite was full I stopped at the overflow site and quickly set up the tent (in the rain). Not much fun - in the future will wait for thunder/rain etc to pass before setting up as I think they will generally pass thru.
Although it turned out to be a good move, and a good night, as some 'New Fundies' were there also and invited me to share some beer & BBQ with them. So had a really good night :)

Trailhead at Banff













Campsite at Spray lake

Onwards to Mexico...

As nice as Banff is (albeit a stunning tourist trap), I've got some riding to do.
Off down the Spray River trail shortly. Will leave at midday and hope to crack out approx 30km to the first campsites. Just after a 'gentle' intro today (first time off road with a load) so prob won't make Canyon dam which is the next informal campsite.
Have food for a few days and full water bottles so should be fun :)

The Icefields Parkway

Will update more later....

Jasper - Jonas Creek 22/7/08 77km
Black bear + baby wondered past the campsite

Jonas Creek - Waterfowl Lake 23/7/08 100km
A biggish climb to Sunwapta Pass, even used the granny ring, but superb views. Well, everywhere you look is awesome to be honest.
Black bear

Waterfowl Lake - Lake Louise 24/7/08 70km
One climb up to Bow pass (great view of Peyto Lake) but mostly down hill.


Lake Louise - Banff 25/7/08 60km
Hot, easy, down-dulating day. A really sweet ride as mostly downhill, in fact the biggest hill was to the campsite at Banff. Took the Bow Valley route which was really quite, mostly tree lined and just great riding.
5x Mountain goats as entered Banff.

Jasper, AB

A nice long 17hr train to Jasper. OK though as way more space than planes plus you can wonder up to the observation carriage etc.
Saw a Black Bear from the train as we pulled into Jasper.
And then prob the same one again later as I was biking back to Jasper from my campground 3km's away. The second time it was 'given away' by hoards of people who stopped driving to get out and take photo's, so no danger at all.
Great weather still, and very friendly people.

Got some food supplies today for the next few days (as nothing available till Lake Louise). Wow, combined with all the other stuff I brought in Vancouver I could hardly close my bag. So a big incentive to eat my way south. Might think about what else to cull from the load.
The road rules and riding on the right are quite different, but getting the hang of it. No probs for the next 300km's though.

Vancouver

Righto,
Have made it this far to Vancouver. OK, so it wasn't too hard to get here.
The weather is awesome, pretty much blue sky since I've been here. Hopefully it follows me.
Stayed with Jocelyn and Walter (Mikes Aunt & Uncle) for the first night which was great as they've really lovely folks.
Had a little bit of jet lag the next day but think I'm all good now.
Am now with Ouri in central Vancouver and am being looked after really well some more.
Am quite liking this "cycle touring" so far !
Went to a Folk festival last night which was nice. Didn't think that the music was too Folksie but the people were :), cool.
A French couple (Rachael & Guillaume) turned up last night enroute to Argentina over one year. Suddenly my 5k is looking a bit short.
A bit of a dinner thing tonight, I've provided an NZ Sav plus an Aus Shiraz for a southern hemisphere flavour and R & G are making crepes.
Its a tough life for sure :)

My bike is singing along now, beautiful loud whirring noise from the rear hub, mmmm.
Got my rear brake adjusted and the front rotor straightened, and a new Kryptonite D-lock to add some more load. Better to have a bike.
And I should be on the MEC store's xmas card list.

Tomorrow we might do a 'group' ride in the morning, and then am off to Jasper on the overnight train which I'm looking forward to.

Outta here

Off shortly so all good.
My rear wheel finally arrived Monday so is all set up and looking good to go.
errr, what drama ? perfect planning !
The weather forecast from Vancouver tomorrow is a sunny, 22- 26c for the next five days.
Sweet.

Anyway, should be back in time for summer, or at least daylight saving.
All the best everyone
Andy

One week to go

Well, this time next week I'll be on my way to Vancouver.

Wow.
Nervous - yes,
Eager - yes.
Organised - No.

Anyway, the plan .....
Fly to Vancouver (16/7), overnight with a friends Aunt/Uncle near airport then relocate to central Vancouver for 3 nights to chill out, relax, check out Vancouver etc. Have always wanted to go there so this will probably just be a quick recce.
Then its the train north to Jasper, AB (don't ask me about the mission getting the ticket!)
Start riding south.....

Jasper to Banff is called the Icefields Parkway. Basically a highway with super beautiful scenery as I understand it. This is my 300km 'warm-up' to touring. Maybe four days, who knows.

Banff is where the route starts proper.
Just another 2,711 miles / 4,337km's to the Mexico border, then head back somewhere (El Paso or Tucson) with an airport to fly to LA and then home.
Not much change out of 5,000km's.
Have 'planned' on approx 70 days riding with 10 or 12 spares days, but can always change the flight home, in fact I expect to.

Organised? Yeah right.
Mostly sorted, with the exception of a rear wheel.
The current one at 6yrs old and 3rd freewheel is due to expire shortly. So I need a new wheel, and one that will last. Strong, light'ish and durable is what I need and I figure a Hope Pro2 Hub with Mavic XM819 disc rim is the bizzo (for any bike geeks). Not cheap, esp in NZ, and I'm a tightarse. So ordered one 12th June from the UK for $250 less. Problem is that they have been outta stock on the hub till last week. Not amused at all. Typical of me to do things the hard way. Anyway, it was dispatched last night, the UPS tracker tells me that it is in Dubai right now and expected in Auckland on Friday. So hopefully Monday. Just in Time as they say.
Yes I'm sweating.
And swearing.
And there is a plan B for if it doesn't turn up in time. A hugely generous offer from Mike to use his spare wheel. How good is that !
Hopefully the new rear disc brake will turn up tomorrow...

Will need to get a few thing in Vancouver, water purifier and most importantly Bear Spray. Don't leave home without it.

But a 'pre-pack' yesterday looked OK wrt weight (2x 23kg bags max) so that looks good.

The start

11/5/08
Well, my first ever Blog. Just sitting here with nothing on the box so lets see how this goes......
Any semblance of order or sanity is probably just luck.

Who knows, three months from now I may be blogging from Canada enroute on the Great Divide Ride.

But things are already underway.
Have got the book & maps, including the Canadian section, my trusty Santa Cruz Superlite mountain bike, and also a BoB trailer lent to me by a mate John. JP did the ride a few years ago from which I guess this madness came to light. Probably wouldn't have heard about it otherwise so thanks JP, I think.
Although I've done a fair bit of mountain biking, prior to Easter 08 I've never cycle toured in any shape or form so this will definitely be stretching the envelope. So, as a 'starter for 10', a quick but scenic trip was had around the Wairarapa/Wainui/Eastboune coast to see how the trailer felt and to get my thinking started wrt gear etc.

The 'Big Coast' ride as its called.
Started from the folks place in Te Marua and off through Tunnel Gully, the Rimutaka Incline and down to the coast. Nice westerly tail wind a fine weather. The sharp wee hill away from lake Enoka and into a very strong wind was a bit of a surprise. Along the coast the wind was very strong, often blowing me off track along the Mukumuku flats. Set up camp in a stand of manuka bushes not much further on. Great spot but windy even in the Manuka. Didn't sleep overly well. A mates Whisperlite cooker did the business nicely (cheers Jason) for a freeze dried dinner (surprisingly OK, prob cos I was hungry), and also for porridge the next morning.
The next day the weather had changed to southerly as predicted which was just what I wanted and wasn't too strong either, perfect as it will push me home once around the 'corner'.
A few sandy bits that had me off the bike and pushing, but nothing too bad. BoB follows along quite easily and rough ground isn't a problem, good fun actually.
Then came a very rough section of wash-outs and stream gouging over very rocky ground. However the official gate for walkers at the trail end was a problem. An impressive gate system that is high, topped with barbed wire and designed so that only a single person at a time can squeeze through. Anyway, I was able to throw my wheels, frame, BoB etc over a thinly barbed section.
Onwards and up the Wainui coast road for a short section and then across a farmers bridge and onto the Pencarrow coast. Prob should have forded the river... The final off-road section to Eastbourne was a breeze, esp with a moderate southerly behind me :). Back on the road felt a bit odd after two days off-road. Will seem even worse on the GDMBR I think. An easy cruise home from there. Even Korokoro hill rd wasn't too bad.
Not sure how many km's but was 4.5 and 4hrs of riding, possibly about 80km. Not much really but a start. Need to get a computer, indeed its critical for navigation on the GDMBR. Would like to do the ride again as a one dayer without BoB as a training ride so will get a computer by then.